I stayed in Go 2 Oporto, a very large apartment. More space than I needed or used but wanted the off-street parking! I liked having the kitchen, too. Very comfortable place that I would rent again.

I booked an afternoon tour my first afternoon, Free Walking Tour OPorto. I left the apartment after picking up some groceries/breakfast for the next couple of days. I went to old town early.

Recommendations

• I enjoyed the facade of Church of Saint Ildefonso. Beautiful tile but closed off with a large fence.
• I stopped at Mercado do Bolhao, a huge market covering a city block. Lots of stalls and restaurants, definitely a great place to wander through and pick up some produce, sandwiches, spices, much more.
• I visited Igreja da Santissima Trinidade. I paid 9€ for a visit to the “full tour”, the church, order, and tower. Beautiful nave, a museum with interesting art, and good views from the tower, but expensive compared to other church visits and don’t really think it was worth the cost.

The tour met at a square just below the Cathedral, Calçada de Vandoma. I was still a little early for the 1530 tour so went up to check out the Estátua de Vímara Peres. My guide later told us who this was and why he was important. But I couldn’t remember and had to look it up; he was named Count of Portugal by King Alfonso III, after taking the region north of the Douro back from the Moors.

After meeting the guide and the others in the group, we went up to the big beautiful square in front of the Cathedral and talked about Porto, the cathedral and more.

• We went to the train station, on the site of the old Convento São Bento. Built in 1900. The 20,000 tiles were created over 10 years by one artist. They depict the history of Portugal.
• We visited the McDonald’s Imperial. It’s considered the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world; it’s in the old Imperial Cafe building. There is gorgeous stained glass, crystal chandeliers. When these historic buildings are repurposed, they are not allowed to change or remove signs, so you can still see “Imperial” behind McDonald’s over the door. There was a falcon out front, McDonald’s hires them to keep seagulls away from outside tables.
• Avenida dos Aliados and Praça da Liberdade are considered the center of Porto, full of large buildings, mostly banks, but with great facades. City Hall is at the end of the square.
• We went to the bookstore, Livaria Lello. Supposedly an inspiration for JK Rowling for part of Hogwarts; she’s on record saying she’s never been there, despite living in the neighborhood. They charge 8€ just to visit so we all peeked in the door when on our walking tour. Looking at the photos online, however, does make me wish I had visited. Our guide told us it’s usually very very crowded.

• We stopped at Clerigos Tower and Jardim da Cordoaria.

After dinner at Santo, I found the local brewery Armazem for a beer before going back to my apartment.

• The next morning my cruise, Get Your Guide Six Bridges Tour, was at 1000. I left my rental around 0900 to enjoy the sites along the river. I walked across the beautiful Ponte Luis I to get to Gaia where the tour started. The cruise sailed up the river then down to see the 6 bridges, taking about an hour.

• After the cruise, I walked along the river enjoying the views and all the port wine tasting houses in Gaia before finding the WOW Cultural Center. There are seven museums, multiple restaurants and stores. I purchased a one-day ticket for 39,00€ and visited the Wine Experience, Planet Cork, and The Chocolate Story Museums. There are several more I would have enjoyed if I had more time. All very interesting.
  • I learned about the 30 or so grapes grown in Portugal, learned there are multiple methods to “train” the vines, and how different soils and altitudes and climate affect the grapes.
  • Planet Cork was really interesting. I’ve seen some cork trees “harvested” with painted numbers on them, and learned why at the museum. I also learned they were grades of cork. I did already know that Portugal was the number one producer of cork.
  • Finally, the Chocolate Story Museum. Chocolate is good for you! Have it daily. Bought some gifts here for someone lucky.

• I spent about an hour enjoying the sites and views from Douro’s Ribeiro. I had taken plenty of photos early in the morning from the other side of the river.
• I took the funicular (2,50€ one-way/4,00€ round trip) up to see the Catedral do Porto. Absolutely beautiful Se or “main” cathedral of Porto, 12th c. Only 3€ to visit the church, sacristy, treasure room, roof, and tower for great views. There are great views of the city from the tower. Despite many travel sites saying climb Clerigos Tower, my guides said over priced, instead just enjoy the views from the cathedral. I did. Love all the blue tiles.

I ended up walking back down to the Ribeira to find a restaurant still open for a very late lunch; after 1500 most of the restaurants are closing. I found Adega Dona Antonia, about 40 minutes before they were going to close at 1700. I took the funicular back up the hill again. It’s steep! I went back at Calçada de Vandoma to meet for another tour.

• Dark Porto Free Tour: Mysteries, Legends and Crimes we visited the beautiful Rua da Flores. We heard a great number of stories including about Camilo Castelo Branco and his adulterous affair with Ana Placido, who was married at the time. There is a statue of them both. Both were arrested for the affair, Camilo was jailed for the second time. During this second and longer incarceration he wrote what most consider to be his best and most characteristic work Amor de Perdição, or Love of Perdition.

Restaurants

• Armazem da Cerveja they only had one beer they brewed but a large selection of other beers, draft and canned. Nice location.

  

• Chocolataira Equador stopped in on the way back to my rental the first night, and bought gifts. I had a dark chocolate & port wine truffle, while they were boxing up selections. The superintendent of my apartment complex loved them.
• Adega Dona Antonia I had some very good roast chicken and the service was great. I enjoyed speaking with the two waiters from Brazil and attempting a very simple conversation in Portuguese.
• Santo I had an excellent mushroom, asparagus risotto, the rest of the menu looks equally good.
• CAL Craft Beers for a beer before my ghost walk, nice selection, convenient location by the cathedral.
• Vinte Vinte, the store at World of Chocolate, offered tastings and I bought some chocolate bars to give at Christmas.

** All photos property of Lisa (except where indicated), not to be copied or reproduced. **