Another place in my “1000 Places to See Before You Die”, I decided to spend a night and day in the Bussaco Forest or, in Portuguese, Buçaco Forest.

History

The Carmelite monastery, the Convento de Santa Cruz do Buçaco, was built in 1628 in the protected Mata Nacional do Buçaco. A wall was built by the monks to protect and conserve the forest. It is about 5 kilometers in circumference.

Originally there were just two doors, the Coimbra and Sula; more were added when the property became managed by the state. One of the original gates has a text from a 17th-century papal bull forbidding women to enter and threatening to excommunicate anyone harming the trees. I came in the Queen’s Gate from Luso, I told them I had a reservation, but I think if you don’t you have to pay a fee to visit. 

The monastery was closed in 1834. Many of the buildings were demolished. The stones were used to build the Palace Hotel. The Palace was built between 1888 and 1907. It was commissioned by King Charles I of Portugal as a royal retreat and hunting lodge.

Besides the convent and chapel, other buildings remaining from the monastery include the chapels and hermitages on some of the trails. The Via Crucis, or Way of the Cross, also called the Via Sacra, has 20 stations constructed in 1644.  There were 11 hermitages built in the forest during the 17th c for penitence, most are still standing and can be seen on the trails.

There are also multiple chapels built along the Avenue of the Monastery. You can buy a map in the gift shop for €2 that has the trails and location of the buildings. I found it very useful on the trails.

Palace and Convent

I stayed in the Palace Hotel do Bussaco. It was a private hunting lodge from 1890s to 1910, until the end of the monarchy in Portugal. It is an absolutely stunning building, the facade, courtyard, the common rooms, dining room, bar, stairwells, are all gorgeous.

Covered in amazing tiles, furniture from the Portuguese colonies of Goa (India) and Macao (China), everything was beautiful. Unfortunately, my room was just adequate. No WiFi, and despite a TV in the room, no channels.  I also missed having a small refrigerator.  Despite that, the bed was comfortable and I had a great view. It was recommended I visit the 3rd floor to go out to the patio with great views over the garden. They also offered a good breakfast with eggs to order.

 

I learned about the Battle of Bussaco from the Concierge when on a short tour of the building after I checked in. The tiles in the stairwell show scenes from that battle with Napoleon’s men.

I also visited what remains of the convent behind the hotel, Convento de Santa Cruz do Bussaco. Not much to see since most of the building was demolished and the religious artifacts were moved when the convent closed but there are a few beautiful rooms along with the chapel. I love all the cork doors and ceilings. There is a small fee for entry.

Trails

The forest has more than 250 tree and shrub species, including trees hundreds of years old and some very exotic species introduced by Portuguese mariners during the Age of Discovery. There are many signs identifying the species of the trees and plants throughout the forest. One that I found interesting was the bunya pine, native to Australia, brought to England by the botanist John Carne Bidwill in the 19th c. There are  many species of camellias that were blooming on the trails, too.

In 2004 Portugal submitted Buçaco Forest to UNESCO’s tentative list of World Heritage Sites.

I did the Trilho da Agua as my first trail. I had seen so many pictures of the Cold Fountain or Fonte Fria, I wanted to make sure I saw that. Starting north of the hotel, by the Fonte de Santa Teresa, it goes through the forest to the Cold Fountain. I climbed the stairs for some great photos and views. I also visited Lago Grande, an artificial lake created in the 18th c. and the small lake there before continuing the trail.

I hooked up to the Trilho da via Sacra or Trilho via Cruzes, and did most of that, visiting the stops on the way back to the convent. I saw the Hermitage of Sacramento Ruins, Porta de Siloe (Siloam Door), down to the Califaz Gate, taking the trail up the Samaritan Fountain, Capela do Sao Pedro, Capela de Santa Maria Madalena, to the Carregal Fountain.

I, of course, enjoyed the beautiful Labyrinth of Jardim Novo, the gardens behind the hotel. I visited them both in the afternoon I arrived and the next morning before I left. Even in February they were beautiful.

I did more of the stations on the Trilho da via Sacra, seeing the Passo do Enconto com a Virgem Maria, the Passo da Primeira Queen, and more the next morning, too, before heading to Aveiro.

Restaurants

The restaurant has very limited hours, unfortunately. Lunch is only served from 1300-1430 and dinner didn’t start until 2000. I returned from my first hike after 1400 and they were closing, so I didn’t have a chance to try the restaurant.

I did go into Luso, to buy some groceries. I picked up a great sandwich at Bella Luy, delicious and large so I saved a piece for later for dinner.