Normandy
I went to Normandy to visit the D-Day beaches but there is so much more to see here. I wish I had booked additional time to see more of the small towns like Saint-Lô or driven up to Cherbourg and the Cotentin peninsula.
I stayed in Bayeux, at a lovely but overpriced hotel.
Bayeux
- Bayeux Tapestry Museum the 70 meter long, 50 cm wide tapestry depicts the Norman conquest of England in 1066 and the events leading up to it. William the Conqueror challenged Harold II, King of England, ending with the Battle of Hastings. I had my ticket in advance, but had to queue up for the audio guide, offered in about a dozen languages. The audio guide explains the 50+ scenes on the tapestry as you move through the huge, dark room. I visited the second floor where there is a full copy of the tapestry and you can take pictures, along with its history, its movement back and forth between England and France, protection during wars and the occupation of France, the Normans and Saxons, and much more. The museum is closing in September for two years so I was lucky to visit now.
- Notre Dame de Bayeux Cathedral is a gorgeous 12th c cathedral, Norman Romanesque and Gothic. Stunning windows. The great crypt, from the 10th c, has amazing columns and paintings.
- Circuit du Vieux Bayeux is a great walk through town with over 20 markers. There are maps available at the information center. I still had a difficult time finding some of the signs but loved the walk. The bronze markers are a tree found in the Bayeux Tapestry,
- Musee Memorial Bataille De Normandie I spent a couple hours here on Sunday. A very good museum, I learned a lot. Despite reading many WWII history books there are always new stories to learn. It covers June to August 1944.
Mont Saint Michel
I had to visit the Abbey Mont Saint Michel while in Normandy. I saw pictures of this decades ago and thought it looked amazing. I didn’t know the name or where it was but wanted to see it.
It is about a 90 minute drive from Bayeux. I had purchased tickets in advance. I had problems trying to buy tickets online, it erred out multiple times with multiple credit cards, and I even tried on my phone, iPad and PC. I gave up and bought them on GetYourGuide.
ARRIVE EARLY! Parking is available (and more expensive than the entry ticket), then there is a long walk through the town and across the causeway or there are free shuttles that will take you most of the way. I arrived about an hour early but knew I had a long walk up to the abbey, too, once I got there, so took the shuttle. I walked back for the views.
There are guides to the abbey in the church in multiple languages listing all the rooms in order of your visit. I saw the guard room, “Grand Degre” staircase, east and west terraces, with great views, before entering the Abbey Church. Plain stone but huge and grand.
I loved the beautiful cloister and the refectory with the narrow windows. I saw the Salle des Hotes, a huge Gothic room for hosting kings and nobleman, the crypt of Great Pillars, St. Martin’s Crypt, and the Wheel Room in the former monks ossuary, used to bring up food for the prisoners (converted for a short time into a prison in 1818). Then I visited the small St. Etienne Chapel, the huge north south staircase, the monks promenoir, the scriptorium where monks copied manuscripts, the cellar, and gardens. All were amazing.
After leaving the gardens I walked the ramparts, visited the Grande Rue, or Main Street, the gates, Saint Peter’s Church, the North Tower. I stopped for a beer with a great view then walked back over the causeway. I found this great list of Must See Things on Mont Saint-Michel that I thought useful while there.
Caen
I drove over to Caen to see the Pegasus Bridge Memorial Museum but while there also visited some sites before coming back to Bayeux.
- Caen Chateau was built in 1060 by William the Conqueror. It was added to by his son, who built the church and a keep in 1123. It is one of the largest medieval monuments in Europe. It was a royal fortress, saw battles during the 100 Years War, and served as a barracks during WWII. It was bombed and heavily damaged in 1944. Free entrance. Views from the walls are beautiful.
- Just across the street is Eglise Saint-Pierre de Caen, or Saint Peter’s. A beautiful church with some nuns (?) singing, beautiful stained glass.
Giverny
I visited the house and gardens of Claude Monet or Giverny Gardens. Very glad I thought to check this location months ago and realized this was a perfect stop on the drive back from Normandy to Paris. I arrived with my e-ticket and went right in when gates opened. I strongly suggest purchasing the ticket in advance as the lines for the tickets were quite long. Monet bought this property in 1883 and spent his life here, painting his gardens.
The water gardens are accessed by going down stairs under the road. After dodging through several large guided groups I had the far end of the garden to myself and enjoyed the peace and the water lily pond and the Japanese Bridge. I returned to Le Clos Normand, the gardens in front of his house, created by Monet and spent an hour here wandering up and down and taking too many photos. I visited the house before leaving. It contains many copies of this paintings. If I had more time before returning to the airport, I would have enjoyed visiting the Musee des Impressionnismes Giverny.
Restaurants
- Le Saint Jean offers a good selection of pizza and pasta. I had a great goat cheese and honey pizza.
- Moulin de la Galette you need reservations. I had the daily special (steak) then a great apple crepe.
- Le Conquerant I went here for a selection of beer but they had a good burger, too.
- Talemelerie Guillaume (Caen) the display of baked goods will draw you in, so hard to choose. I also tried a great Croque Monsieur.
** All photos property of Lisa, not to be copied or reproduced **