Leon, Spain
I stayed in FC Infantas de Leon. I really liked this hotel. It even had easy and free parking on the street. Refrigerator in the room is always a plus. They had a cafe attached plus offered a breakfast buffet.
The hotel was just a short walk outside the city walls, close to the large gate Muralla Bajoimperial de León, the 1st c walls.
Recommendations:
- Leon Cathedral
- Diocesan Cathedral Museum of Leon
- Plaza de Regla
- Palacio Episcopal
- Palacio de Los Guzmanes
- San Marcos Church
- Casa Botines
- Parque del Cid
- Plaza San Isidoro
- Basilica of Saint Isidoro
- San Marcos Church Museum
- Plaza San Marcelo
- Gates and walls, Arco de la Cárcel o de Puerta Castillo, Muralla Bajoimperial de León, Muralla Romana de León
- Castillo de las Torres
I visited the Leon Cathedral after I arrived. They had an audio guide that was very interesting. There is more stained glass here (per square meter) than any church in Europe. Gorgeous!
The attached museum was closing as I finished the church so I had to return the next day. The cathedral is on the huge, busy Plaza de Regla. There are shops and restaurants and monuments here, as well as a great sign of LEON, that everyone wanted a photo in front of, so it was hard to just get a picture. Thankful for my Magic Eraser on my phone.
When I continued my walk into Old Town, I found a Medieval Fair going on. Later, I learned it was actually the “Festival of St. Froilán”. Frolian is the patron saint of Leon and the festival is held annually from October 5 to 12.
Like many fairs, even in the US, there were a lot of items like soaps, leather goods, candles for sale. It was fun wandering through here, however, enjoying people watching and looking at all the crafts. There were plenty of food and drink booths as well, one with an immense pan of paella.
I was heading to Casa Botines, but the fair was running along side it, by Palacio de Los Guzmanes, through the Parque del Cid, along Roman ruins to the large, open Plaza San Isidoro. The Basilica of Saint Isidoro, Palacio del Vizconde de Quintanilla, and Columna Trajana, are all on the plaza.
I went back to visit Casa Botines, Gaudi’s House of the Dragon. The ground floor has the history of the building, used for the family’s fabric company on the ground floor and home for the family on the upper floors, design information and more. Gaudi designed the window fastenings and door hardware, special mirrors, and the furniture.
On the second floor, it shows the rooms, salon, bath, kitchen, and furnishings, There is art displayed on the third floor, including a room of Goya’s drawings. There was another room of Dali’s illustrations of Dante’s inferno.
In 1957, the Italian government hired Salvador Dalí to create illustrations for Dante’s “Divine Comedy” to celebrate Dante’s 700th birthday. The project was canceled because the Italian public were outraged that a Spanish artist was hired instead of an Italian. Dalí continued his work and published his illustrations in 1964.
I went back to the cathedral to see the Diocesan Cathedral Museum of León. There are multiple rooms, part of the cloister, filled with some amazing religious art and artifacts. There is a room filled with “modern” religious art, which I’ve never seen. Imagine Dali painting the crucification.
I walked out to Convento de San Marcos. The convent is now a Paradores luxury hotel. The church and museum are open for visitors.
I visited Santo Martino Plaza on the way to Arco de la Cárcel o de Puerta Castillo, one of the old Roman Gates to the city. I also saw the Castillo de las Torres, now a government building. I continued my walk outside the walls, Muralla Romana de León, to enjoy the views.
Plaza San Marcelo has many restaurants and bars, plus the El León de la Alcantarilla, a lion coming out of a manhole, and a beautiful fountain, Fuente de San Marcelo
I spent several hours in the wonderful Museo de Leon. Only a €1 entry, which is surprising considering the size and great exhibits in the museum. Really a highlight of Leon, from prehistoric artifacts, through the Romans and Muslims, to current day. There are some beautiful mosaics, bronze art, sarcophagi. On the top floor, there are great views of the city.
Museo de Leon actually has its main office in San Marcos church, and there is a room in the church displaying larger stone tablets, columns, and many Roman ruins.
I bought tickets online to see the San Isidoro Royal Collegiate Church in León. It’s a very busy location, they had multiple guided groups. There was a QR code for an audio guide on your phone but with all groups and guides speaking, it was impossible to hear. I waited for the first group to leave the room and restarted the guide but there was another group coming in.
They had some interesting exhibits and a really beautiful room with frescoes but because of the crowds and noise I think both the Diocese Cathedral Museum and Museo de Leon better. They are also both cheaper. I did like being able to go onto the walls from the church, there are great views here.
Restaurants
- Four Lions – great burger but none of their own beer! They don’t brew year round.
- Bodega del Humedo – had a great salad. Lots of items on their menu sound good. They are just off Plaza Mayor.
- Cervecería La Céltica
** All photos property of Lisa, not to be copied or reproduced **
