On the drive from Chattanooga to Hot Springs I went through Little Rock. Fortunately, the Little Rock Central High School National Historic Site had Saturday hours.

I didn’t make it in time for the 1300 guided Ranger tour, but I spent an hour and a half in the visitor center then about an hour following the NPS app audio tour of the grounds. I was very glad for the opportunity to visit and learn more about this event. They have a lot of audio and video exhibits in the visitor center about the Little Rock Nine and all they went through. I didn’t know that Arkansas closed down all the schools for an entire year to prevent integration. Very interesting, not to mention infuriating, history.

Hot Springs

I’ve never been to this part of the country and thought it was a great opportunity to visit Hot Springs National Park since I was so close. There are plenty of trails in the park but the highlight is Bathhouse Row. Comprised of eight historic bathhouses, built between 1892 and 1923, Bathhouse Row is the center of the park and a National Historic Landmark District.

Hot Springs was named a “federal reservation” by Andrew Jackson in 1832. Locals consider this America’s first national park, 40 years before Yellowstone.

The visitor center is in the Fordyce Bathhouse; there is a video about the history of the area and exhibits about the geology and historic use of the springs dating back to Native American tribes.

I almost missed seeing the rest of the building thinking it was just the small room of exhibits with the theater. That would have been very disappointing! All three floors, plus the basement, are open to see the architecture, the old changing rooms, baths, massage rooms, parlors, therapeutic equipment, and all the great tile and stained glass.

Two of the bath houses, Buckstaff Bathhouse and Quapaw Baths & Spa are still open for visitors. I booked a micro silk hydrotherapy bath at Quapaw and a full session at Buckstaff, whirlpool bath, hot packs, sauna cabinet, sitz bath then a Swedish massage. Lovely!

One of the bathhouses is now a brewery, using the spring water for the beer. Superior Bathhouse Brewery is the only brewery in any National Park. They have good beer and good food. Boo appreciated the pup menu, too, and got a large burger plus a new bandana. Another of the bathhouses, the Lamar, is now the park store.

There are many great trails in the park. We enjoyed the Grand Promenade several times, a lovely brick walkway above Bathhouse Row where you can see “display” hot springs left open for viewing.

Whittington Park offers an easy trail around the area, and has one of the fountains. It rained about 3 days out of 6 while there, but we also had time for the West Mountain Trail, Mountain Top, plus Tufa Trace and Lower Fountain. After driving up the Hot Springs Mountain Drive, we did some trails around the top. All offer lovely views, but I really recommend the West Mountain Trail.

Other

The water! There are “fountains” available all over town. Usually crowded with locals filling up multiple large jugs, I took every opportunity to fill up all the bottles I had with me, too. Hard to describe how delicious good water can be, but this is what all water should taste like.

I visited The Gangster Museum of America based on reviews but was really not impressed. A local did some research on the gangsters in the area and made a video discussing the history. On the guided tour, we visited different rooms and saw a few minutes of the video on different topics. The local history is really interesting but they make a big event out of it, and it’s not really worth the money.

I also visited the science museum in town. Great for kids, but Mid-America Science Museum is definitely not intended for adults. Lots of hands-on exhibits that families with children will love, otherwise I do not recommend.

Restaurants

I had a great (and HUGE) plate of sauerbraten and some delicious sides at Steinhaus Keller, and, of course, some authentic German Hefeweizen.

They have a good menu as well as good beer at Superior Bathhouse Brewery. I went twice, I had their Banh Mi then a great burger. Their fries are really delicious. And I’ve already mentioned, Boo loved his burger. He got one both times we visited.

I stopped in Pour Some Sugar on Me for a treat one day, they have a large selection of candy and bakery items. They are on Central Avenue just across from Bathhouse Row.