Leaving Hot Springs, I got an early start so I could stop at Fort Smith National Historic Site. Such interesting history, glad I took the opportunity to visit. The area was the site of a fort as early as 1817, the second fort was built in 1838. It was occupied by Confederate soldiers in 1861 but Union soldiers forced them out in 1863.

It was originally built to “keep peace” in Indian Territory (i.e. Oklahoma) between the local tribe, the Osage, and the Cherokee, that the US had forcibly removed from Georgia and Florida. I found the history of the US Marshalls, Judge Isaac Parker, and the Western District of Arkansas, “the largest, deadliest, and busiest” federal court district in the country all fascinating. The visitor center is in the courthouse building along with the first and second jails, there are lots of exhibits on the grounds, a memorial for the Trail of Tears, and lines showing the boundary between Arkansas and Indian Territory.

I decided to come to this area for a few days to see the local battlefields, Pea Ridge and Wilson’s Creek.

Missouri had more battles than any other state except Virginia and Tennessee. Many were guerrilla warfare, “border ruffians”, and bandits but there were several regular Army battles, too.

Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield

On the drive north through Missouri, after 3 nights in Bentonville, Arkansas, I went about an hour out of the way to visit Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield. This was the second major battle of the Civil War after first Manassas/Bull Run, August 10, 1861 and marked the beginning of the civil war in Missouri.

It’s interesting that so many of the eastern theater battles are well known but I’ve not heard of many of the battles in the “West”, like this or Pea Ridge or Stones River that I visited when in Nashville. The site wasn’t protected until 1960, when named a battlefield park. It became a national battlefield in 1970. More land was protected in 2004 and again in 2019 when purchased by the American Battlefield Trust.

The site seems strangely empty compared to others like Gettysburg or Vicksburg with their hundreds of monuments. But those memorials were built by the soldiers who fought there within decades of the battles. The visitor center offers a video overview of the battle and good exhibits, then I did the short driving tour.

Missouri was important for both sides with access to the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers. Most Missourians wanted to remain neutral but the governor, Claiborne Jackson, and other politicians wanted to fight for the Confederacy.

This battle was considered a win for the Confederacy but they were unable to pursue the Union forces so Missouri remained under federal control.

Pea Ridge National Military Park

In March, 1862, over 23,000 soldiers fought at Pea Ridge. It was considered a turning point in the war for Missouri and the western theater. Pea Ridge National Military Park is considered the most important Civil War battle west of the Mississippi River.

Created by Congress as a military park in 1956, it’s just about a half hour NE of Bentonville. After the exhibits in the visitor center, I followed the On Cell driving tour of the restored battlefields, the Telegraph (Wire) road, part of the Trail of tears and visited the Elkhorn Tavern, center of much of the battle.

By spring 1862, the Union had pushed all the rebel forces out of Missouri into Arkansas. CSA General Van Dorn planned to attack the Union Army near Pea Ridge and decided to force march his troops overnight, leaving behind his supply wagons. Two CSA generals were killed but their initial attack was successful, and the Confederates controlled Elkhorn Tavern and Telegraph Road, however, Union General Curtis organized overnight and counterattacked. The Confederates, due to lack of supplies, had to abandon the battlefield. Van Dorn’s troops never trusted him again after his decision to leave behind their ammunition.

Bentonville

I just stayed in Bentonville as it was fairly central to what I wanted to see, and only booked a few nights. I could have stayed longer, it’s a beautiful city and plenty to do.

I saw a Frank Lloyd Wright house on the map and always love seeing his designs, so I ordered a free ticket (advance reservations required) for the Bachman-Wilson House. Originally built in New Jersey for the Wilsons, it was moved and restored after being flooded multiple times. They offer guided tours (very limited tickets) and self-guided tours with an audio guide.

The house is part of the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Free admittance, it’s a large and beautiful museum, a wide variety of art and artists, and in a great building. They offer several walking tours as well, one for the highlights of the museum, another for the architecture tour. I missed the art tour but did attend the daily architecture tour.

The grounds have some great trails and lead to other city trails including the Bentonville Art Trail. Another day I visited the Compton Gardens & Arboretum. These trails connect to the Crystal Bridges trails, and a dirt bike trail, the Slaughter Pen. It’s a lovely downtown area, including the Bentonville City Square.

Restaurants

The first night in town I picked up some drunken noodles from Thai Basil and took them over to Social Project Brewing. The noodles were great, a large order, and I had enough for lunch the next day. Social Project is in an industrial complex/small mall, but lots of seating inside and out. Great beer, they offer flights.

There are many restaurants close to the square. I picked up some pork tamales one evening from Taco & Tamale. They were okay, nothing like the fantastic Tamale Addiction in Austin but their chips and dips were great. Almost like pita chips, thicker than just corn tortillas. I ordered the creamy jalapeño-onion, the tomato marmalade dip, and their hatch green chile salsa. All excellent, I would have been happy with just that for a meal.

A couple afternoons later, after visiting the gardens, I stopped at Bentonville Taproom. It is dog friendly inside and out. A good selection of beer, both their own and a large selection of guest taps.

** All photos property of Lisa, not to be copied or reproduced **